How to do rolled roofing installation and how do you install a rolled roof?

Last updated: 2026-05-27 by Ted Sellers, Owner

Last updated June 2026 by Ted Sellers, Sellers Roofing Company

Rolled roofing installation is one of the more forgiving roofing projects a capable DIYer can take on — but only on the right applications. I’ve installed rolled roofing on hundreds of outbuildings, low-slope garages, and porch roofs across the Twin Cities over 18 years, and I’ve also torn off plenty of failed rolled roofing jobs that weren’t done right. This guide covers how to do it correctly the first time.

Rolled roofing (MSR) works on slopes of 2/12 or greater with adhesive, or 4/12 or greater with nails only. A 10×12 shed needs approximately 2 rolls of 36-inch MSR, 1 tube of lap cement, and 1 lb of 1¼-inch roofing nails. Budget $60–$90 in materials for that size.

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When rolled roofing is the right choice

Rolled roofing is appropriate for:

• Sheds, garages, and outbuildings — especially those with low slopes where regular shingles won’t seal properly
• Porch roofs and lean-tos — low pitch applications where aesthetics matter less than function
• Temporary repairs — as a bridge solution until a full replacement is practical
• Low-slope sections attached to a steeper main roof (though EPDM rubber membrane is often better here)

Rolled roofing is not appropriate for:

• Occupied living spaces — too short a lifespan (5–15 years) and too vulnerable to moisture intrusion
• Flat roofs (0/12 to 1/12) — standing water will work through the seams; use modified bitumen or EPDM instead
• High-visibility roofs — it doesn’t look as good as shingles; if curb appeal matters, shingle the shed instead

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Materials you’ll need

For a standard 10×12 shed (about 1.5–2 squares of roof surface depending on pitch):

Material	Qty	Approx Cost (2026)
MSR Rolled Roofing (36″ × 36′, 100 sq ft/roll)	2 rolls	$40–$55 each
Roofing lap cement (cold-applied)	1 qt–1 gal	$18–$28
Metal drip edge (2″ × 2″, 10′ sections)	6–8 sections	$3–$5 each
1¼” galvanized roofing nails (smooth shank)	1 lb box	$6
1⅜” galvanized roofing nails (for thick decking)	1 lb box	$6
Roofing caulk	1 tube	$8

Available at Home Depot, Menards, or for larger orders, ABC Supply or SRS Distribution carry commercial-grade MSR products at lower per-roll cost.

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Tools you’ll need

• Hammer or pneumatic roofing nailer (15-degree coil or cap nails work if you already own one)
• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Utility knife with extra blades (MSR dulls blades fast)
• Stiff brush or broom for surface prep
• 4-inch putty knife or notched spreader for lap cement
• Safety glasses and work gloves

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Step-by-step rolled roofing installation

Step 1 — Inspect and prep the deck

MSR roofing needs a solid, dry, clean deck. On a shed, this is typically ⅜” or ½” OSB or plywood.

• Check for soft spots — press firmly with your foot over each board section
• Replace any rotted or delaminated sheathing before you roll anything out
• Remove old roofing if present; don’t roll over more than one existing layer
• Sweep the deck completely clean — granules don’t stick to debris
• Make sure all deck fasteners are flush or below the surface; a proud nail head will create a high spot that leads to a tear

Minnesota tip: Don’t install MSR when the temperature is below 40°F. Cold makes the asphalt brittle and the adhesive won’t bond. Spring and early fall are your windows up here.

Step 2 — Install drip edge at eaves

Before anything else goes on the roof, install metal drip edge along the eaves. Drip edge goes under the roofing at eaves (so water drips over it onto the fascia) and over the roofing at rakes.

• Nail drip edge every 8–10 inches along the eave
• Overlap sections at least 2 inches
• Use a nail set to drive fastener heads flush

Step 3 — Snap chalk lines

Snap horizontal chalk lines across the deck as guides for your roll courses. For standard 36-inch wide MSR:

• First line: 35 inches up from the eave (allows 1-inch overhang at the eave, 4-inch exposure)
• Subsequent lines: 32–34 inches up from the prior course (to maintain a 2–4 inch overlap)

Step 4 — Roll out and cut the first course

• Unroll the MSR across the full width of the roof, letting it overhang the eave by 1 inch
• For roofs narrower than 36 feet, cut the roll to length with a utility knife — score and snap
• Let the material relax for 15–20 minutes if it was stored rolled tight; it will flatten and be easier to align

Step 5 — Nail the first course

Nailing pattern — this is where most DIY installs fail:

• Nail along the TOP edge of the first course, 3 inches from the top, every 3 inches (approximately 12 nails per 3 linear feet)
• Also nail the bottom edge (at the eave overhang): every 6 inches
• Drive nails flush — not countersunk, not proud. Flush.
• Do NOT nail through the overlap zone where the next course will seal with cement

Step 6 — Apply lap cement to the top edge of the first course

Before laying the second course, apply lap cement to a 4–6 inch wide band along the top of the first course. This is the bond that keeps water out.

• Use a notched spreader or putty knife
• Apply a uniform 1/16″ to ⅛” thick coat
• Don’t glob it — too much cement traps air and creates bubbles that crack

Step 7 — Lay and bond subsequent courses

• Roll the second course over the first, pressing the bottom edge firmly into the cemented zone
• Align to your chalk line
• Use your hand or a dry roller to press out air from the bonded zone, working from center toward edges
• Nail the top edge of the second course the same way as the first (3 inches from edge, every 3 inches)
• Nail the bonded overlap zone’s bottom every 6 inches for additional security

Repeat for all courses up the roof.

Step 8 — Handle end laps (when two rolls meet end-to-end)

If your roof is wider than one roll can cover end-to-end:

• Overlap end joints a minimum of 6 inches
• Apply lap cement to the full width of the 6-inch overlap zone before pressing together
• Stagger end laps between courses — don’t stack them on the same vertical line

Step 9 — Install at the rake edges

At the gable ends (rakes), install drip edge after the roofing is down (opposite of eaves). The MSR should overhang the drip edge by ¼ inch. Nail the rake edge of each course every 6 inches.

Step 10 — Cap the ridge

At the ridge:

• Cut a strip of MSR approximately 12 inches wide and the length of the ridge
• Bend it over the peak (gently — if it’s cold, warm it with a heat gun first to avoid cracking)
• Apply lap cement to both sides of the ridge before laying the cap strip
• Nail every 6 inches on both sides of the ridge cap, 1 inch from the edge

Seal all exposed nail heads with roofing caulk.

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What I see on Twin Cities roofs

Most of the rolled roofing I deal with is failing rolled roofing — someone’s garden shed from the early 2000s that’s bubbling, cracking, or losing adhesion along the seams. Nine times out of ten, the problem was one of three things: it was installed cold (below 40°F), the lap cement was skipped or applied too thin, or the deck had a soft spot that was never fixed.

The detached garages in older Roseville and Arden Hills neighborhoods are full of this product. Some of those installs are 20+ years old and still holding because the slope is decent (4/12 or better) and the laps were done right.

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Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)

• Installing when it’s cold. MSR below 40°F cracks at the bends and won’t bond with adhesive. If you have to work in cool temps, keep the rolls indoors overnight and work in the morning.
• Skipping lap cement. Nails alone won’t seal a horizontal lap against wind-driven rain. Lap cement in the overlap zone is non-negotiable.
• Not nailing the bottom edge at eaves. The eave edge flaps in wind if not nailed. Nail it every 6 inches after the drip edge is set.
• Using the wrong nail. Use smooth-shank galvanized roofing nails, 1¼” minimum. Drywall screws, staples, and roofing staples are not substitutes.
• Nailing through the overlap zone. If you nail where the next course’s cement zone is, you create a void in the seal. Keep nails above the overlap line on the underlying course.

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Common Questions

How do you install rolled roofing on a shed? Install drip edge at eaves first, roll out each course from eave to ridge with a 1-inch eave overhang, nail the top edge every 3 inches, apply lap cement to the overlap zone, press the next course in, and cap the ridge with a 12-inch bent strip cemented and nailed on both sides.

What is MSR rolled roofing? MSR stands for Mineral Surface Roll — it’s granule-coated asphalt roofing that comes in 36-inch wide rolls covering 100 sq ft. It’s designed for low-slope applications where standard shingles can’t properly seal due to reduced drainage.

What is the minimum slope for rolled roofing? With cold-applied lap cement, 2/12 is the minimum. Nails-only installation requires 4/12 or steeper. Below 2/12, you need a membrane system like EPDM or modified bitumen.

How long does rolled roofing last? 5–15 years on a properly installed low-slope application. Steeper slopes and good installation technique push toward the 15-year end. Flat or nearly flat applications rarely exceed 7–8 years.

How much rolled roofing do I need for a 10×12 shed? A 10×12 shed at a 4/12 pitch has about 140–150 sq ft of roof surface. Two rolls of MSR (100 sq ft each) cover it with enough for laps and waste. Add 1 roll of starter or use scraps from roll 2.

Can I put rolled roofing over old rolled roofing? Only if the existing layer is firmly adhered with no bubbles, soft spots, or raised seams. Most re-covers fail within a few years because the old adhesion deteriorates and the new layer loses support. I recommend full tear-off in most cases.

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Get help from a Twin Cities roofer

If the roof is bigger than a shed or you’re dealing with a connected structure where a leak would cause real damage, it’s worth a professional install. Contact Sellers Roofing — I’ll take a look and give you a straight assessment of whether DIY is reasonable or whether the application calls for a pro.

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Ted Sellers Sellers Roofing Company | MN Lic #803862 Arden Hills, MN | Serving the Twin Cities since 2008

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